The Sacred Valley

Sunday 15 May: St Isidore Day (Feast of the Farmers)
Trip to Sacred Valley -

The beautiful Río Urubamba Valley, also known as El Valle Sagrado (The Sacred Valley), is about 15km north of Cuzco as the condor flies, via a narrow road of hairpin turns.

Again a lovely day. Our guide is Ignacio (or Nacho). The valley is a food bowl: potatoes, carrots, quinoa but not corn as it is too high here.

We stop at a small market at Qurao and shortly after, descend steeply to get our first glimpse of the Real Cordillera of the Andes in the distance. I finally get a photo of the bulls that sit on the rooftops of some houses - this is meant to protect the house, I am told.

I am looking forward to the famous Sunday market at Pisaq but first we visit the large Pre-Columbian burial cemetery - Intihuatana - for a look over this archaeological site. This Quechua word loosely translates as the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’ and refers to the carved rock pillar, often mistakenly called a sundial, at the top of the Intihuatana hill. The Inca astronomers were able to predict the solstices using the angles of this pillar. Thus, they were able to claim control over the return of the lengthening summer days. Its exact use remains unclear, but its elegant simplicity and high craftwork make it a highlight. [read on below]

Afterwards we stroll through the market at Pisaq and try some empanadas which are available at the local bakery in traditional clay ovens. Originally a place where people from remote communities used to barter their products, Pisaq has evolved to one of South America's most famous souvenir markets.

We drive to Tunupa through the Sacred Valley, following the river and stop for a superb lunch.

On the way we pass through several villages - in Lamay there are many outdoor stalls cooking guinea pig (cuy). We are yet to try this ...

Eucalypts line the road - apparently the seed was imported from California in the 1940s and the plantings are to replace tree clearing of the land by the Spanish.

We pass through Huaran where we start our trek tomorrow.

Next village, the road is blocked due to a religious festival. [read on below]

Afterwards we visit to the fortress of Ollantaytambo where the Temple of the Sun (comprising six gigantic monoliths whose total weight exceeds 50 tons) and the Terrace of the Ten Niches stand out. The fortress is the starting point of the famous Inca Trail.

Temple of the Sun:
The 15th century Inca Pachacutec conquered and began to rebuild the town of Ollantaytambo, constructing terraces for farming and an irrigation system. These huge terraces make up what is called the Fortress or Temple Hill. The town became home to Inca nobility. After Inca Pachacutec’s death, the town and its surroundings fell to the hands of his family and then eventually to those of Inca Manco. Inca Manco used Ollantaytambo as a retreat from the attacks of the Spanish. The fortress of Ollantaytambo, originally built for religious purposes, was the site of a major battle, one of the only successful ones against the conquistadors. From high above in the terraces of Ollantaytambo the Incas managed to hold back and defeat the Spanish, in addition they flooded the plain below forcing the Spanish to withdraw. The Spanish had been, briefly, defeated. Manco Inca retreated to the jungle stronghold of Vilcabamba shortly after the battle, knowing that the Spanish would return with even more force. The fortress of Ollantaytambo was soon captured by Pizarro and his men

Our accommodation is at a lovely lodge in the Sacred Valley not far from Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo