Up at 5 a.m.!! They are definitely early risers here. Alois says it is not uncommon for farmers to be up at 3 or 4 a.m. to have breakfast and then start the long walk up the mountain either with their herd of animals (this is often a woman's job - sometimes with toddler 'in tow' and baby on the back) whilst the men head for the potato plots.
We have stopped for lunch at Cuncani. We were in by just after 11 a.m. I think and we have a lovely spot on grasslands by the river but the cloud is increasing and the warm sun is now becoming cold.
We had quite an uphill climb this morning to the pass at 4100 m getting there just after 8:30 am. - 2 hours climbing. The view across to Salkantay (6271 m) was a real highlight. I was thrilled to see its snow-capped peak in the distance: we were so lucky it wasn't shrouded in cloud.
From here we had a descent - tricky in parts with rocks sliding underfoot, and then a lovely walk on the flat plateau admiring beautiful lakes, some emerald green. We passed a woman and kids shepherding a flock of llamas, sheep and goats accompanied by her dogs. Very colourful.
Then another big descent through a steep valley with the path blocked (probably by a local farmer or herder) by a waist-high wall of rocks at one point - which Alois had to unpack so we could climb over and continue on our way.
On we went, going lower and lower and watching our feet all the way; some beautiful waterfalls and finally we were down to Cuncani where our 'restaurant' tent was erected and the boys were busy making preparations for lunch. TOP and I shared a beer (a local Cusco beer made from barley called Cusqueña) which I bought from a woman who had set up her handicrafts (and beer) stall on the grass near us.
After lunch we said goodbye to our muleteer Juvenal who (in sandals would you believe!) was to take the horses back over the two passes we'd done in the past 2 days to stay at Cancha Cancha tonight; this is where we camped on our first night with the snoring pig - and where his mother-in-law lives. What a walk!
We then hiked with Alois in the opposite direction (away from the mountains we had just descended) to Lares - a lovely walk.
From the outskirts of Lares, our car picked us up and drove us to the thermal baths where we had a lovely soak for half an hour. Lares is known for its hot springs.
We are on our way again feeling much fresher after 3 days in the same clothes (ugh!) - but we had the 7 p.m. train to catch at Ollanta! Well, at least we thought we did. There had been so much pfaffing around about train times to Agues Calientes that no-one knew WHAT was going on! We had tickets for the 7 p.m. train as per itinerary but after Carlos' involvement (the first guide), who seemed to think we had no chance of making this train, the discussion had been to change it to the later 9 p.m. So we didn’t know if we were racing to catch the 7 p.m. train or whether we could have a relaxing and less speedy drive to make the 9 p.m. train.
Well, as luck would have it, our driver got us up and over a very narrow mountain pass (sealed road but incredibly steep, winding and narrow: I held onto my belly nearly passing out with travel sickness) and through the Sacred Valley to Ollanta where we had been last Sunday at the fortress - and arrived on time.
We had a nice coffee at the restaurant/cafe at the station which indeed seems to look as wonderful as the reviews I have read. Service was excellent and we enjoyed our coffee and it filled in the half hour wait we had before boarding a wonderful-looking PERURAIL train for Agues Calientes - at 7 p.m. as it turned out ... Which was great because it meant we would be into Agues Calientes in time for dinner.
We said goodbye to Alois and said how grateful we were for such a wonderful trek. TOP added that it was not just a physical but an emotional experience - perfect! Alois is a proud Chechuan man and we have been really immersed in the Andean experience.
We were met at the station after the 1.5 hour trip and we followed the man to our hotel at Agues Calientes which is WONDERFUL and we enjoyed the complimentary pisco sour before dinner.
Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, Agues Calientes lies in a deep gorge below the ruins of Machu Picchu. A virtual island, it’s cut off from all roads and enclosed by stone cliffs, towering cloud forest, and two rushing rivers. Despite its gorgeous location, Aguas Calientes has the feel of a gold rush town, with a large itinerant population, slack services that count on one-time customers and an architectural tradition of rebar and unfinished cement.
All the training you both did certainly paid off. Fantastic scenery.interesting beer label.
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