Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Paracas to Nazca

Before travelling to Nazca, first thing was our excursion to the Ballestas Islands, often known as 'the poor man's Galapagos': an aquatic nature reserve that contains one of the highest concentrations of marine birds in the world. There are sea lions, penguins, numerous species of birds and the Paracas Candelabra, a curious pre-Inca design on the hillside, only recognisable from the sea.



It was a great trip - in a speed boat that took half an hour to reach the islands, via a stop to look at the 'Candelabra' as it is known.



Then an hour out at the islands where the speed boat driver did a great job getting us up close to the birds, seals and sea lions. Then half an hour back. The guide was very knowledgeable and it was very interesting. [continued below]






We left Paracas at noon and it was about 4.5 hours in a car to Nazca, down the Pan-American Highway. This road is 30,000 kms long and, except for a 100km break at the Darién Gap near Panamá, goes from Alaska to Ushuaia (Argentina) at the bottom tip of South America.

We passed through the very big town of Ica, travelling away from the coast, with a stop at the Lagoon of Huacachina, which became famous due to the medicinal properties of its filtered waters, but is now quite polluted. 

What WAS good was stopping at one of the shops to try (and buy) some pieces of tejas chocotejas (a dumpling-shaped confection with fruit or nuts) which is very yummy!


The countryside was so dry. It's unbelievable how little rain they get here. There were patches of green every now and then that were like oases - the water apparently from wells - and shanty towns, huge sand dunes: various hues of yellows, whites, creams and browns. We passed through a tunnel in a cutting with steep sides, the road slicing through the mountain, as we came into the town of Palpa where there was a lot more farming: asparagus, carob, pecan, oranges, mangos, onions.

We see Cerro Blanco which at 2100 m is the 2nd highest sand dune in South America.

Everywhere - even outside of towns - there are political slogans on any structure that lends itself to being painted. They have presidential elections due in June.

Just before Nazca, we stopped at the small Maria Reiche Museum, the former home of Dr. Maria Reiche (1903-1998), the German mathematician and archaeologist who dedicated more than 50 years of her life to the study, protection and measurement of the Nazca Lines. It was fascinating but so run-down: a disgrace really!



We arrived in Nazca at 4:30 p.m. so simply had a walk around town. There is not much to the town - it is quite run-down. 

The people are friendly - we went to the supermarket for some water; bought some churros from a street seller and some fruit from another roadside stall.

This is the purple corn I was talking about in Lima (maíz morada).

Early dinner - another pisco sour (we have managed to have one every night but will have to knock it off now as we climb to 2380 m at Arequipa tomorrow night)!!! - and off to bed. 

Picked up some coca tea at reception on the way back in; nice - if you add sugar to it!


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