Thursday 19 May
Up at 4 a.m. Queues for the cavalcade of buses that zig-zag up the dusty road from Agues Calientes to Machu Picchu were long - and dawn broke while we waited and chatted to fellow travellers for an hour; but finally we were there and in fact the first rays of the sun popped over the mountains as we had our tour guide doing his spiel while we gawked at the vista before us.
The road is named after Yale University professor Hiram Bingham who in 1911 led a small expedition to Peru in search of the ‘lost city’ of Vilcabamba. Until the end of his life he thought he had discovered Vilcabamba. Returning in succeeding years, he took thousands of photographs. He also took thousands of objects to the United States for study and safekeeping, which was to cause wrangling between the Peruvian government and Yale University for years afterwards.
The Inca ruins lie on a high ridge, surrounded on three sides by the Urubamba River in a deep valley below. When Bingham first saw the maze of terraces and walls rising out of the thick undergrowth in 1911, he found himself in a ghost town that had been hidden from the outside world for nearly 400 years. "It seemed like an unbelievable dream," he later wrote. "What could this place be?"
And they are still trying to work it out. Endless theories abound: ceremonial site, a military stronghold, or a retreat for the ruling elite?
The tour was great and afterwards we walked all over - even walking up (several times because we kept getting into endless one-way loops that the guards monitored assiduously by blowing their whistles whenever anyone strayed in the wrong direction) to the watch tower and on further to the Inka Bridge. By the end of the morning it was very hot and we were pretty done-in although we then walked all the way back down to Agues Calientes rather than take the bus - which was pretty crazy.
Bonus was that the bottom, we stumbled upon the Manuel Chávez Ballón Museum which was excellent - plus the adjoining Botanic Garden. Ballón was in charge of archaeological research at Machu Picchu between 1966 and 1971. The museum added to the information given by our guide earlier today at the Machu Picchu complex.
Wednesday 18 May
Up at 5 a.m.!! They are definitely early risers here. Alois says it is not uncommon for farmers to be up at 3 or 4 a.m. to have breakfast and then start the long walk up the mountain either with their herd of animals (this is often a woman's job - sometimes with toddler 'in tow' and baby on the back) whilst the men head for the potato plots.
We have stopped for lunch at Cuncani. We were in by just after 11 a.m. I think and we have a lovely spot on grasslands by the river but the cloud is increasing and the warm sun is now becoming cold.
We had quite an uphill climb this morning to the pass at 4100 m getting there just after 8:30 am. - 2 hours climbing. The view across to Salkantay (6271 m) was a real highlight. I was thrilled to see its snow-capped peak in the distance: we were so lucky it wasn't shrouded in cloud.
From here we had a descent - tricky in parts with rocks sliding underfoot, and then a lovely walk on the flat plateau admiring beautiful lakes, some emerald green. We passed a woman and kids shepherding a flock of llamas, sheep and goats accompanied by her dogs. Very colourful.
Then another big descent through a steep valley with the path blocked (probably by a local farmer or herder) by a waist-high wall of rocks at one point - which Alois had to unpack so we could climb over and continue on our way.
On we went, going lower and lower and watching our feet all the way; some beautiful waterfalls and finally we were down to Cuncani where our 'restaurant' tent was erected and the boys were busy making preparations for lunch. TOP and I shared a beer (a local Cusco beer made from barley called Cusqueña) which I bought from a woman who had set up her handicrafts (and beer) stall on the grass near us.
After lunch we said goodbye to our muleteer Juvenal who (in sandals would you believe!) was to take the horses back over the two passes we'd done in the past 2 days to stay at Cancha Cancha tonight; this is where we camped on our first night with the snoring pig - and where his mother-in-law lives. What a walk!
We then hiked with Alois in the opposite direction (away from the mountains we had just descended) to Lares - a lovely walk.
From the outskirts of Lares, our car picked us up and drove us to the thermal baths where we had a lovely soak for half an hour. Lares is known for its hot springs.
We are on our way again feeling much fresher after 3 days in the same clothes (ugh!) - but we had the 7 p.m. train to catch at Ollanta! Well, at least we thought we did. There had been so much pfaffing around about train times to Agues Calientes that no-one knew WHAT was going on! We had tickets for the 7 p.m. train as per itinerary but after Carlos' involvement (the first guide), who seemed to think we had no chance of making this train, the discussion had been to change it to the later 9 p.m. So we didn’t know if we were racing to catch the 7 p.m. train or whether we could have a relaxing and less speedy drive to make the 9 p.m. train.
Well, as luck would have it, our driver got us up and over a very narrow mountain pass (sealed road but incredibly steep, winding and narrow: I held onto my belly nearly passing out with travel sickness) and through the Sacred Valley to Ollanta where we had been last Sunday at the fortress - and arrived on time.
We had a nice coffee at the restaurant/cafe at the station which indeed seems to look as wonderful as the reviews I have read. Service was excellent and we enjoyed our coffee and it filled in the half hour wait we had before boarding a wonderful-looking PERURAIL train for Agues Calientes - at 7 p.m. as it turned out ... Which was great because it meant we would be into Agues Calientes in time for dinner.
We said goodbye to Alois and said how grateful we were for such a wonderful trek. TOP added that it was not just a physical but an emotional experience - perfect! Alois is a proud Chechuan man and we have been really immersed in the Andean experience.
We were met at the station after the 1.5 hour trip and we followed the man to our hotel at Agues Calientes which is WONDERFUL and we enjoyed the complimentary pisco sour before dinner.
Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, Agues Calientes lies in a deep gorge below the ruins of Machu Picchu. A virtual island, it’s cut off from all roads and enclosed by stone cliffs, towering cloud forest, and two rushing rivers. Despite its gorgeous location, Aguas Calientes has the feel of a gold rush town, with a large itinerant population, slack services that count on one-time customers and an architectural tradition of rebar and unfinished cement.
Tuesday 17 May
Up at 5:30 after a semi-wakeful night but not too bad considering: the thin air mattress, the cold that snuck in sometime during the night (rectified by snuggling into the very thick sleeping bag), the snoring pig, and the dog fight in the middle of the night!
It is cold as dawn lights up the sky; still need a torch to pack. Breakfast is nice: a local drink called cuáker which is made from wheat with cinnamon, sugar and water and is welcomingly hot plus potatoes and omelette. We warm our hands around the hot cups. We are eating lots of papas (potatoes)!!
Climb to 4100 m - a lot of puffing and discarding of clothes as we go. We pass little villages and kids descending to school. Only Chechuan spoken in these parts.
Long climb from here to highest point on the pass today 4500 m. I was cursing Alois on the way as I hauled a pack full of warm clothing; I had been thinking he'd overstated the case for it being cold; but at this high point, it was very cold and I didn't regret my heavy parka for a moment.
Here we can see Lake Pachacutec and snow-capped Mount Pitusiray.
We are definitely up with the llamas here!
We stuffed around at this point chilling out (literally) while Alois did his Chechuan offerings to Mamapacha and we built a stone tower. Basically, this is just 'buying time' to allow the horses and cooka to get ahead to organise lunch.
We have more climbing for a short time, then the most scenic walk along a pass.
So here we are at lunch after a very tricky descent that went on and on - slipping and sliding on a steep track - the most amazing scenery: jagged mountain peaks (sometimes shrouded in mist - or low cloud?) and the most beautiful lakes. This beats the lakes in Bolivia 'hands down'!
Lunch is a lovely vegetable soup and a tray of vegetables and macaroni plus a slice of potato (!) stuffed with tuna and vegetable tortillas. Cooka out-does himself!
We rest some more: the sun is in and out but when out is quite hot. We have 1.5-2 hours walking to go.
The next village is Quisuarani (3,700 m) which is the next campsite. This is a larger community and not like the remote, small traditional community we stayed in last night: it is well known for its high quality weavings.
We are basically camping in someone's backyard and the tents have been erected in a shelter where the clothes are hanging on the line - and we are on cement! Hmm, looks like being a long, hard night ahead. We went 'bush' last night and the toilet here TOP tells me is GHASTLY so I'll be going 'bush' here too!
Dinner was good again - vegetable soup and lunch left-overs served cold but followed by a hot delicious peach liquid dessert which we drank straight from the bowl with our hands wrapped around it for some warmth.
Monday 16 May
Well, it was a pretty messy start. I did not speak of it before this because I wanted to see how things 'panned out'. Even this morning, having been given a 5:45-6:15 pickup time from our hotel to drive to Huaran for the start of the walk, I was even wondering if the trek would happen when no-one turned up until 7 a.m. ... (it would have been VERY nice to have known we weren't to be picked up until 7 a.m. - a 'sleep-in' would have been great!!).
However, Alois - our guide - is a delight. Very Chechuan and into all things Inca; he has good English and a nice manner. There is Karen also as assistant guide but she is really 'along for the ride': she is from Chile, a guide herself but here to 'learn the ropes' locally.
We are sitting in a lovely spot next to a river. There are the 3 horses and Juvenal the mulateer/horseman and 'cooka' the cook - his name is something like Toreador but we've agreed on Torro ('for 'bull') much to the group's amusement. So the group is 6 including us 2 Pams - plus the 3 horses.
We eventually set off once the horses are loaded up. Electricity is coming to the valley! But the Government provides the poles and the locals have to carry them (!!) up the steep hills to be installed ... can't imagine workers carrying such huge poles in Australia ...
Juvenal and Torro (carrying a carton of eggs as well as guiding a fully-laden horse!) have gone on ahead and set up a tent to prepare lunch. We are told we are 40 minutes early so hopefully that means we are walking OK? The horses have been relieved of their loads and are happily munching the grass. This also means I can (unexpectedly) access my duffel bag for insect repellent as I have been swotting the little buggers every time we have stopped - which, out of necessity, have been very short stops for me as I had to stay on the move to keep the blighters away!
Alois (I hope I have that right) has been playing one of those wooden flutes we associate with Peruvian music. And I am catching up on my blog under a tree while lunch is prepared ... we have semolina soup with vegetables.
So, the rest of our start-of-trek story while we wait (before climbing what looks like a long way!) ...
... at our briefing on Saturday night it became clear we were up for a 2-day walk, not 3. Now, we might yet regret not sticking with just two days (!!) but it is not what was planned. Alex, the Setours guide in Cusco, did not answer his cell phone, so we rang the emergency number in Lima and passed the conversation over to Debra to work it out with the trek guide, Carlos. There was some pretty intense conversation in Spanish!
Anyway, the trek has been restored as per itinerary - and a different guide turned up this morning - Alois; so go figure!
After lunch we started to ascend more. We meet an 'old' woman (turns out she is 66 and looks much older) was shepherding a flock of sheep and llamas; Alois gave her a couple of handfuls of coca leaves and he chatted with her in Chechuan.
On we went (chewing coca leaves like the locals): kids going home from school pass by - a good long climb each day!
And at 2:30 p.m. we arrive at our camp site Cancha Cancha (3700 m). The tents went up very quickly on our small patch of dirt nestled between some local houses - and a pig house (the pig snores I can tell you!).
We went off for a wander through the village with Alois and Karen and we see the locals working the fields for potatoes. The sun has returned and it is a beautiful afternoon.
Meanwhile, the cook prepares our meal for tonight. He works hard! He walks the same walk as us: with a pack and 2 dozen eggs!; and helps set up camp - and cooks!! But the muleteer also doubles up as cook's assistant - as well as running after errant horses that seem to loosen their ropes and disappear off across the fields.
There is an almost full moon lighting up the landscape and as the sun sets, the snow-capped peaks light up golden.
We have popcorn and biscuits with tea before dinner which is soup and a lovely vegetable mix with, I suspect, left-over chicken from lunch.
Sunday 15 May: St Isidore Day (Feast of the Farmers)
Trip to Sacred Valley -
The beautiful Río Urubamba Valley, also known as El Valle Sagrado (The Sacred Valley), is about 15km north of Cuzco as the condor flies, via a narrow road of hairpin turns.
Again a lovely day. Our guide is Ignacio (or Nacho). The valley is a food bowl: potatoes, carrots, quinoa but not corn as it is too high here.
We stop at a small market at Qurao and shortly after, descend steeply to get our first glimpse of the Real Cordillera of the Andes in the distance. I finally get a photo of the bulls that sit on the rooftops of some houses - this is meant to protect the house, I am told.
I am looking forward to the famous Sunday market at Pisaq but first we visit the large Pre-Columbian burial cemetery - Intihuatana - for a look over this archaeological site. This Quechua word loosely translates as the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’ and refers to the carved rock pillar, often mistakenly called a sundial, at the top of the Intihuatana hill. The Inca astronomers were able to predict the solstices using the angles of this pillar. Thus, they were able to claim control over the return of the lengthening summer days. Its exact use remains unclear, but its elegant simplicity and high craftwork make it a highlight. [read on below]
Afterwards we stroll through the market at Pisaq and try some empanadas which are available at the local bakery in traditional clay ovens. Originally a place where people from remote communities used to barter their products, Pisaq has evolved to one of South America's most famous souvenir markets.
We drive to Tunupa through the Sacred Valley, following the river and stop for a superb lunch.
On the way we pass through several villages - in Lamay there are many outdoor stalls cooking guinea pig (cuy). We are yet to try this ...
Eucalypts line the road - apparently the seed was imported from California in the 1940s and the plantings are to replace tree clearing of the land by the Spanish.
We pass through Huaran where we start our trek tomorrow.
Next village, the road is blocked due to a religious festival. [read on below]
Afterwards we visit to the fortress of Ollantaytambo where the Temple of the Sun (comprising six gigantic monoliths whose total weight exceeds 50 tons) and the Terrace of the Ten Niches stand out. The fortress is the starting point of the famous Inca Trail.
Temple of the Sun:
The 15th century Inca Pachacutec conquered and began to rebuild the town of Ollantaytambo, constructing terraces for farming and an irrigation system. These huge terraces make up what is called the Fortress or Temple Hill. The town became home to Inca nobility. After Inca Pachacutec’s death, the town and its surroundings fell to the hands of his family and then eventually to those of Inca Manco. Inca Manco used Ollantaytambo as a retreat from the attacks of the Spanish. The fortress of Ollantaytambo, originally built for religious purposes, was the site of a major battle, one of the only successful ones against the conquistadors. From high above in the terraces of Ollantaytambo the Incas managed to hold back and defeat the Spanish, in addition they flooded the plain below forcing the Spanish to withdraw. The Spanish had been, briefly, defeated. Manco Inca retreated to the jungle stronghold of Vilcabamba shortly after the battle, knowing that the Spanish would return with even more force. The fortress of Ollantaytambo was soon captured by Pizarro and his men
Our accommodation is at a lovely lodge in the Sacred Valley not far from Ollantaytambo.
Ollantaytambo
