To keep you amused - and a diversion from The Budget ...
Thursday, May 5, 2016
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
La Paz
I was wrong about La Paz being the capital of Bolivia; it is in fact the seat of government. Sucre is the official capital.
The city's name is Our Lady of Peace (Nuestra Señora de La Paz) - but commonly known as La Paz. It is located on the western side of Bolivia at an elevation of roughly 3650 m.
The city sits in a bowl surrounded by the high mountains of the altiplano. As it grew, the city of La Paz climbed the hills, resulting in varying elevations from 3200 to 4100 m. Overlooking the city is the towering 4-peaked extinct stratovolcano Illimani (6438 m) which is always snow-covered and can be seen from many parts of the city.
We had a city tour today, visiting the old town (Casco Viejo) in which is Plaza Murillo which was originally Plaza Major and then in Spanish colonial times was known as Plaza de Armas - as in most Bolivian and Peruvian cities. But following independence, it was renamed the July 16 Plaza (Plaza 16 de Julio) on February 3, 1902, in honour of Pedro Murillo, who was captured and hung by Spanish troops in January 1810.
Prominent buildings on the plaza include the Presidential Palace, the National Congress of Bolivia, and the Cathedral of La Paz. [An interesting sight in the Plaza is the clock in the spire of the Presidential Palace. The clock runs anti-clockwise!]
The plaza was fenced off today and under heavy armed security due to an expected protest. It was a good thing we had Edwin with us who showed his ID and got us in.
Walking on, we stopped so I could buy a humita which I saw in the window of a shop. It is an Andean snack, but common in fact throughout Latin America and has been prepared in Spanish America since pre-Columbian times. It is based on a soft paste made from corn.
We then drove to the Mirador Killi Killi to see the city from a high point. The streets are incredibly steep and the old buses creak up - usually they are Dodges and Chevrolets.
Edwin talked to us about the Cochabamba Water War which was a series of protests that took place in Cochabamba, Bolivia's third largest city, between December 1999 and April 2000 in response to the privatization of the city's municipal water supply company Semapa. The wave of demonstrations and police violence was described as a public uprising against water prices. The James Bond film, 'Quantum of Solace' (2008), involves a wealthy businessman, a member of the Quantum organisation, who intends to stage a coup d'état in Bolivia to seize control of that country's water supply.
We then drove 11 kms to the southern part of the city to visit to the bizarre Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna): a maze of canyons and giant spires. The formations, composed mainly of clay and sandstone, were created by the persistent erosion of mountains by the area’s strong winds and rains.
It is quite warm here: apparently for every 200 m descent, there is a temperature increase of 1 degree C.
We then opt for a cable car ride rather than a visit to a museum. We take the yellow line cable car which goes up to El Alto city at the top of La Paz where the working-class live. The three cable car lines (red, yellow and green - the same colours as in the flag) were built only about 2 years ago for $US234 billion (by Doppelmayer); at the top station it is 4010 m.
We then returned to the central business district where we are staying and walked around the Witches Market (Mercado de las Brujas). Despite the Catholicism the Spanish introduced to Bolivia, an ancient belief system is still strongly in place among the Andean majority. In the market there are shops and street vendors who sell totems, trinkets and talismans meant to appease the gods of the sun and earth: including dead baby llamas with their hollow eyes and ghastly, grimaced mouths. The sheer number of shops speaks to the stubborn persistence of a religion the Catholics weren’t able to uproot, despite their best efforts.
By lunchtime, Edwin finished his tour and we had a free afternoon.
We did a few things like TOP getting a memory card and more Bolivianos from an ATM (Edwin told us that there isn't counterfeit money here!); and then we wandered the markets again looking at foods, hats, gloves, jumpers, etc. They sell EVERYTHING in the market - even toilets of amazing colours. We entertained ourselves in Optica shops where I bought frames to replace my broken reading glasses (I tell you, I am struggling! No doubt there are lots of typos in this blog!). Anyway, 200 Bolivianos (= $US 30 roughly).
Then back to the hotel to sort ourselves out. We have an early start in the morning - earlier even than scheduled due to the flight being earlier now. We go out for dinner for the first time in a few days and have a lovely meal - wild grilled trout and a glass of nice white (Bolivian) sauvignon blanc.
By the way, there are some notorious villains who have a connection with Bolivia:
- Klaus Barbi came to Bolivia; there was a film I think called 'Nazi Hunters' about this. There was a story that Barbie worked with the CIA to capture and kill Che Guevara. Apparently Barbie lived well in Bolivia.
- Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid are said to have died in a dusty Bolivian town on Nov. 6, 1908. Historians say they are dead. What refuses to die is the legend that they survived that shootout and lived on.
The city's name is Our Lady of Peace (Nuestra Señora de La Paz) - but commonly known as La Paz. It is located on the western side of Bolivia at an elevation of roughly 3650 m.
The city sits in a bowl surrounded by the high mountains of the altiplano. As it grew, the city of La Paz climbed the hills, resulting in varying elevations from 3200 to 4100 m. Overlooking the city is the towering 4-peaked extinct stratovolcano Illimani (6438 m) which is always snow-covered and can be seen from many parts of the city.
The plaza was fenced off today and under heavy armed security due to an expected protest. It was a good thing we had Edwin with us who showed his ID and got us in.
We then drove to the Mirador Killi Killi to see the city from a high point. The streets are incredibly steep and the old buses creak up - usually they are Dodges and Chevrolets.
Edwin talked to us about the Cochabamba Water War which was a series of protests that took place in Cochabamba, Bolivia's third largest city, between December 1999 and April 2000 in response to the privatization of the city's municipal water supply company Semapa. The wave of demonstrations and police violence was described as a public uprising against water prices. The James Bond film, 'Quantum of Solace' (2008), involves a wealthy businessman, a member of the Quantum organisation, who intends to stage a coup d'état in Bolivia to seize control of that country's water supply.
We then drove 11 kms to the southern part of the city to visit to the bizarre Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna): a maze of canyons and giant spires. The formations, composed mainly of clay and sandstone, were created by the persistent erosion of mountains by the area’s strong winds and rains.
It is quite warm here: apparently for every 200 m descent, there is a temperature increase of 1 degree C.
We then opt for a cable car ride rather than a visit to a museum. We take the yellow line cable car which goes up to El Alto city at the top of La Paz where the working-class live. The three cable car lines (red, yellow and green - the same colours as in the flag) were built only about 2 years ago for $US234 billion (by Doppelmayer); at the top station it is 4010 m.
We then returned to the central business district where we are staying and walked around the Witches Market (Mercado de las Brujas). Despite the Catholicism the Spanish introduced to Bolivia, an ancient belief system is still strongly in place among the Andean majority. In the market there are shops and street vendors who sell totems, trinkets and talismans meant to appease the gods of the sun and earth: including dead baby llamas with their hollow eyes and ghastly, grimaced mouths. The sheer number of shops speaks to the stubborn persistence of a religion the Catholics weren’t able to uproot, despite their best efforts.
We did a few things like TOP getting a memory card and more Bolivianos from an ATM (Edwin told us that there isn't counterfeit money here!); and then we wandered the markets again looking at foods, hats, gloves, jumpers, etc. They sell EVERYTHING in the market - even toilets of amazing colours. We entertained ourselves in Optica shops where I bought frames to replace my broken reading glasses (I tell you, I am struggling! No doubt there are lots of typos in this blog!). Anyway, 200 Bolivianos (= $US 30 roughly).
Then back to the hotel to sort ourselves out. We have an early start in the morning - earlier even than scheduled due to the flight being earlier now. We go out for dinner for the first time in a few days and have a lovely meal - wild grilled trout and a glass of nice white (Bolivian) sauvignon blanc.
By the way, there are some notorious villains who have a connection with Bolivia:
- Klaus Barbi came to Bolivia; there was a film I think called 'Nazi Hunters' about this. There was a story that Barbie worked with the CIA to capture and kill Che Guevara. Apparently Barbie lived well in Bolivia.
- Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid are said to have died in a dusty Bolivian town on Nov. 6, 1908. Historians say they are dead. What refuses to die is the legend that they survived that shootout and lived on.
Tuesday, May 3, 2016
Leave Peru - Arrive Bolivia
Tuesday 3 May
Collected at 6:45 a.m. We are now in the hands of a different group organising the land component of the trip. Things have run smoothly thus far in Peru so we are hoping the next company will do the same.
We got to the bus stop as per plan this morning so, off to a good start.
We were given our immigration papers as we boarded. We drive along the lake shore: an interesting perspective given we looked out to the shore from the water on our boat trip yesterday.
Lots of signs for the PPK. Lots of political ads for candidates running for the upcoming Presidential election - but most of these are now redundant as the 1st round of voting is done. Lots of eucalypts.
We see a few locals on bikes: motorists' nightmare (because there is usually a vehicle coming the other way); cyclists' nightmare: the rule is - HIT THE DIRT! (We later saw two intrepid cyclists with paniers, lycra, etc. Brave souls! Not for me!!)
First stop is at Desaquadero to change money into Bolivianos; we do this on the Peruvian side as we have been told that changing money in Bolivia, you will likely end up with some counterfeit (the woman in charge of the bus ensures everyone has the right information and all goes smoothly even when I get to the counter and am told I have to have a photocopy of my passport - she is fortunately on hand to say that as an Australian this is not so; when I return to the queue, it is the other woman at the counter who serves me and I marvel at her dexterity counting out the notes one-handedly as the other hand is deformed and she can't use it).
[Photo caption: safely through the border controls!]
The bus stops next at the migration office at the border a little further along on the Peruvian side where we hand in our Andean Immigration Card and then we walk about 400 m to the migration on the Bolivian side - where we get a green Bolivian Immigration Card (not to be lost!) after which we board the bus to Copacabana.
There are several other Copacabanas: one in Columbia and one in Brazil. But in fact, the origins of the Bolivian one have a different back-story: it used to be called Kota Kahuaña but when the Spanish arrived, they couldn't pronounce it so it became 'Copacabana'.
Our guide for the next 2 days is Edwin.
First we walked up the main street. The town is not only beautifully nestled between hills overlooking the bay, but is also an important Bolivian ancient shrine as thousands of pilgrims visit the city to be blessed by the Dark Virgin of Copacabana. The Basilica of the Virgen de la Candelaria is at 3845 m.
We have a nice lunch at a restaurant overlooking the main street (which goes from the church to the lake). In the middle of lunch we are lucky: a procession goes past (part of the festivities of the Fiesta de la Cruz which occurs 3rd May - today!). Of course the main festivities occurred on Sunday; today is a working day!
After lunch, we go by boat to the Sun Island (Isla del Sol) on Lake Titicaca (on the Bolivian side). It is the biggest island on the lake (12 x 9 kms) and Yumani, Challa and Challapampa are the three villages on the island.
According to the legend, the Inca couple Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo appeared here to found the Empire of the Sun.
We go first to Pilcokaina where there is an Incan temple - the Temple of the Sand. We walk from here to the village of Yumani, a small community that has kept its traditions and boasts breathtaking views.
It is a nice hike, although I am pretty breathless on the climb up. It is then very pleasant, mostly flat.
We pass mules; these ones are unloaded but usually they take goods up to the top of the island from the port below. We then descend to Yumani via the Incan steps where our boat is waiting.
By the time it takes us the hour in the speed boat to get back to Copacabana, it is not long to wait for our bus - and we need to be at the bus station at 6 p.m. anyway.
It gives us about an hour of free time, so we do our own walking tour sometimes retracing our steps from our walking tour with Edwin this morning; and sometimes venturing forth along unknown streets.
We marvel at some of the foods cooking in street stalls for dinner; small 'supermarkets'; artesenal stalls selling the ubiquitous hats, scarves, gloves, jumpers, llama key rings; we found a small market where we made one stall holder laugh at our bewildered expressions trying to work out what it was she was selling that looked like a body part but could have been a piece of rolled bacon soaking in something that looked like tea - in a tall glass ...
So, then we board the bus at 6:30 p.m to go to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia.
Fascinating! We have to disembark after an hour to go on a ferry to cross the water from one part of the mainland to another.
Hmm - the reality was not so exciting. Frankly I felt like a refugee as they boarded the busload of passengers onto two not very seaworthy-looking boats; it felt decidedly unsafe as we travelled across the water in the dark from San Pedro to San Paolo.
On dry land on the other side, we ate the yummy food we'd bought earlier in Copacabana (from a groovy little bakery where the two women worked flat-out) - accompanied by the hungry-looking street dogs which hugged around our legs looking up earnestly for left-overs.
Anyway, we re-board the bus on the other side of the water channel and travel another 2 hours on a very bumpy road. But what a sight as we come into La Paz from the top of the valley! Lights on the sides of the valley - everywhere! Magical! And very exciting to be here: I have heard so much about this place. We arrive about 10 p.m.
Edwin is travelling with us but says goodnight as La Paz is home for him; he will be on our city tour with us tomorrow.
We are at 3600 m.
Collected at 6:45 a.m. We are now in the hands of a different group organising the land component of the trip. Things have run smoothly thus far in Peru so we are hoping the next company will do the same.
We got to the bus stop as per plan this morning so, off to a good start.
We were given our immigration papers as we boarded. We drive along the lake shore: an interesting perspective given we looked out to the shore from the water on our boat trip yesterday.
Lots of signs for the PPK. Lots of political ads for candidates running for the upcoming Presidential election - but most of these are now redundant as the 1st round of voting is done. Lots of eucalypts.
We see a few locals on bikes: motorists' nightmare (because there is usually a vehicle coming the other way); cyclists' nightmare: the rule is - HIT THE DIRT! (We later saw two intrepid cyclists with paniers, lycra, etc. Brave souls! Not for me!!)
[Photo caption: safely through the border controls!]
The bus stops next at the migration office at the border a little further along on the Peruvian side where we hand in our Andean Immigration Card and then we walk about 400 m to the migration on the Bolivian side - where we get a green Bolivian Immigration Card (not to be lost!) after which we board the bus to Copacabana.
There are several other Copacabanas: one in Columbia and one in Brazil. But in fact, the origins of the Bolivian one have a different back-story: it used to be called Kota Kahuaña but when the Spanish arrived, they couldn't pronounce it so it became 'Copacabana'.
Our guide for the next 2 days is Edwin.
We have a nice lunch at a restaurant overlooking the main street (which goes from the church to the lake). In the middle of lunch we are lucky: a procession goes past (part of the festivities of the Fiesta de la Cruz which occurs 3rd May - today!). Of course the main festivities occurred on Sunday; today is a working day!
After lunch, we go by boat to the Sun Island (Isla del Sol) on Lake Titicaca (on the Bolivian side). It is the biggest island on the lake (12 x 9 kms) and Yumani, Challa and Challapampa are the three villages on the island.
According to the legend, the Inca couple Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo appeared here to found the Empire of the Sun.
By the time it takes us the hour in the speed boat to get back to Copacabana, it is not long to wait for our bus - and we need to be at the bus station at 6 p.m. anyway.
We marvel at some of the foods cooking in street stalls for dinner; small 'supermarkets'; artesenal stalls selling the ubiquitous hats, scarves, gloves, jumpers, llama key rings; we found a small market where we made one stall holder laugh at our bewildered expressions trying to work out what it was she was selling that looked like a body part but could have been a piece of rolled bacon soaking in something that looked like tea - in a tall glass ...
So, then we board the bus at 6:30 p.m to go to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia.
Fascinating! We have to disembark after an hour to go on a ferry to cross the water from one part of the mainland to another.
Hmm - the reality was not so exciting. Frankly I felt like a refugee as they boarded the busload of passengers onto two not very seaworthy-looking boats; it felt decidedly unsafe as we travelled across the water in the dark from San Pedro to San Paolo.
On dry land on the other side, we ate the yummy food we'd bought earlier in Copacabana (from a groovy little bakery where the two women worked flat-out) - accompanied by the hungry-looking street dogs which hugged around our legs looking up earnestly for left-overs.
Anyway, we re-board the bus on the other side of the water channel and travel another 2 hours on a very bumpy road. But what a sight as we come into La Paz from the top of the valley! Lights on the sides of the valley - everywhere! Magical! And very exciting to be here: I have heard so much about this place. We arrive about 10 p.m.
Edwin is travelling with us but says goodnight as La Paz is home for him; he will be on our city tour with us tomorrow.
We are at 3600 m.
An addendum to yesterday (Lake Titicaca)
Re the trip to the floating islands:
There are 5 families on Chumi Island. Somewhat prosaically, if one falls out with another family (or dare I say one's partner??) they just get a saw and cut off that piece of the island - so they told us ... And if one falls out with a neighbouring island, one just pulls out their anchor during the night - and voilà! Hmmm...
I like the modern touch: the solar panels!
FAST FACTS:
These islands are made and re-made from the totora reeds which provide home, sustenance and transportation for their residents. These floating islands are the home of the Uros tribe, one which pre-dates the Incan civilization. They speak Aymara but the younger people are learning Spanish at school now.
Because of their simple and precarious lifestyle, the Incas thought them worth little and accordingly taxed them very little. Yet the Uros, with their basic reed homes, outlasted the Incas with their huge stone temples and mountain-top enclaves.
I like the modern touch: the solar panels!
FAST FACTS:
These islands are made and re-made from the totora reeds which provide home, sustenance and transportation for their residents. These floating islands are the home of the Uros tribe, one which pre-dates the Incan civilization. They speak Aymara but the younger people are learning Spanish at school now.
Because of their simple and precarious lifestyle, the Incas thought them worth little and accordingly taxed them very little. Yet the Uros, with their basic reed homes, outlasted the Incas with their huge stone temples and mountain-top enclaves.
Off to Bolivia - and the great unknown!
Have no idea what the wi-fi will be like. Will most certainly be out of action for a few days, if not all of the time.
We return here to Puno on 12 May.
Hasta la vista!
We return here to Puno on 12 May.
Hasta la vista!
Monday, May 2, 2016
Lake Titicaca
Monday 2 May
We are now in Puno. We have two nights here.
We have travelled from the Colca Valley to here, arriving last night about 6:00 p.m.
Early start - again! We do a trip on Lake Titicaca.
FAST FACTS:
Largest lake in South America and highest navigable lake in the world at 3,812 m.
First off we visit the Uros floating islands; we stop off on Chumi where we are shown how they make their floating island - not surprisingly, I suppose, they have to be anchored or, as they joke, they'd end up in Bolivia! Sounds a bit precarious - like caravanning?
We go for a sail on a traditional reed boat - all a way of paying a bit more to supplement their income; but hey, at 10 Peruvian soles (=$US3), who's complaining? And it was very relaxing!
There's a bunch of 4 medicos on board who work in the States (mainly New York; one in the UK) and we have an interesting medical conversation - apparently scurvy is a problem here because they don't eat enough citrus etc; they also suffer from arthritic conditions due to the damp.
We leave the floating islands behind and the boat takes us to Taquile 1.5 hrs away. It is a beautiful landscape: the blue of the water, the clouds, the colours of the land.
And Taquile is beautiful too, with emerald green water lapping the shoreline. I can picture 5-star resorts here in the future as it is almost a South American version of the Mediterranean - but I am fortunately reminded that the island is UNESCO-protected. Thank goodness for UNESCO!!
We walk about half an hour UP to the main plaza at 3900m where there are plenty of photo opportunities. I practise walking SLOWLY and manage the altitude fine. Hopefully I am acclimatising.
Here, the indigenous community has conserved across the centuries many of the customs of the old lake population, such as a communitarian life where everything is shared. Men walk around knitting the woollen caps they wear; women weave traditional clothes, which are among the most beautiful in Peru. The plaza is a good place to people-watch.
Lunch is at a lovely spot overlooking the snow-covered Mt Llampu - at 5519 m the highest of the peaks in the Cordillera Real in the Bolivian Andes. Lunch is quinoa and vegetable soup plus TOP had the grilled trout and I had the tortilla plus coca tea. All yummy.
There was a demonstration of weaving, making shampoo by macerating a herb with a rock - a white frothy liquid resulted. And we watch the blokes knit!!
A delightful walk back down to a different part of the island where our boat awaited. I chatted with 3 sisters from California who are going to Machu Picchu to trek for a couple of days.
All in all, a delightful day.
We decide to decline the transfer after the boat trip to return to the hotel; instead we get dropped off in the central Plaza de Armas so we can have a look around.
It is about 4 p.m. by this stage and the Cathedral in the square is very grand indeed. We stroll back to the hotel along the main drag Lima Avenue which is traffic-free and buy some alfajores from a street stall as I see a number of people eating them - they look yummy and are!
Back at the hotel there was a hot water bottle in the bed! Decided to stay in and eat bits of food we have gathered along the way - we have another early start tomorrow. We are off to Bolivia!
FAST FACTS:
Largest lake in South America and highest navigable lake in the world at 3,812 m.
First off we visit the Uros floating islands; we stop off on Chumi where we are shown how they make their floating island - not surprisingly, I suppose, they have to be anchored or, as they joke, they'd end up in Bolivia! Sounds a bit precarious - like caravanning?
We go for a sail on a traditional reed boat - all a way of paying a bit more to supplement their income; but hey, at 10 Peruvian soles (=$US3), who's complaining? And it was very relaxing!
There's a bunch of 4 medicos on board who work in the States (mainly New York; one in the UK) and we have an interesting medical conversation - apparently scurvy is a problem here because they don't eat enough citrus etc; they also suffer from arthritic conditions due to the damp.
We leave the floating islands behind and the boat takes us to Taquile 1.5 hrs away. It is a beautiful landscape: the blue of the water, the clouds, the colours of the land.
And Taquile is beautiful too, with emerald green water lapping the shoreline. I can picture 5-star resorts here in the future as it is almost a South American version of the Mediterranean - but I am fortunately reminded that the island is UNESCO-protected. Thank goodness for UNESCO!!
We walk about half an hour UP to the main plaza at 3900m where there are plenty of photo opportunities. I practise walking SLOWLY and manage the altitude fine. Hopefully I am acclimatising.
Here, the indigenous community has conserved across the centuries many of the customs of the old lake population, such as a communitarian life where everything is shared. Men walk around knitting the woollen caps they wear; women weave traditional clothes, which are among the most beautiful in Peru. The plaza is a good place to people-watch.
Lunch is at a lovely spot overlooking the snow-covered Mt Llampu - at 5519 m the highest of the peaks in the Cordillera Real in the Bolivian Andes. Lunch is quinoa and vegetable soup plus TOP had the grilled trout and I had the tortilla plus coca tea. All yummy.
There was a demonstration of weaving, making shampoo by macerating a herb with a rock - a white frothy liquid resulted. And we watch the blokes knit!!
A delightful walk back down to a different part of the island where our boat awaited. I chatted with 3 sisters from California who are going to Machu Picchu to trek for a couple of days.
All in all, a delightful day.
It is about 4 p.m. by this stage and the Cathedral in the square is very grand indeed. We stroll back to the hotel along the main drag Lima Avenue which is traffic-free and buy some alfajores from a street stall as I see a number of people eating them - they look yummy and are!
Back at the hotel there was a hot water bottle in the bed! Decided to stay in and eat bits of food we have gathered along the way - we have another early start tomorrow. We are off to Bolivia!
Sunday, May 1, 2016
Colca Canyon
Sunday 1 May
FAST FACTS (for the benefit of Richard who I think by now has researched it anyway):
The Colca Canyon is a geological formation created by erosion from the Colca River over thousands of years. It reaches depths of 4160 meters and is more than 120 kilometers long. This was confirmed in 2005 when an expedition led by the Polish researcher Andrew Pietowski performed several measurements using GPS. This makes the Colca Canyon the deepest canyon in the world and approximately twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. This canyon is part of the volcanic chain of the western Andes, where there are spectacular views volcanoes such as Hualca Hualca, Ampato and Sabancaya.
It is also popularly known as “The Kingdom of the Condor”.
The Colca Valley is named after a word of Quechua origin meaning 'barn', which was, in ancient times, designated as the warehouse where corn surplus was stored for the unforeseeable droughts.
So we were up at 5 a.m. for an early departure to see condors. We had breakfast with a pretty sunrise.
Lovely morning.
First stop is the main plaza in town where a traditional dance is underway - called the Wititi dance.
We drive to Colca Valley past villages with textile-like fields of different colours and terraces. The Colca Valley is very agricultural mainly from Aug to April. There are 30 varieties of corn, 2000 varieties of potatoes, broad beans, alfalfa, onions, quinoa; guinea pig are raised; and yoghurt and cheese are made; plus herding of alpacas and sheep.
At the condor viewpoint are heaps of Andean condors (vultur gryphus) which is endangered - it is the biggest flying bird in the world (maximum wingspan of 3.3 m). I'll spare you the dozens of photos I took.
Nearby, I had some yummy chirimoya icecream from a roadside stall; we had seen this fruit in the market in Chivay yesterday. Best part was the walk back along the edge of the canyon (I was a bit ‘over’ condors ...)
We stopped at the old river town of Maca on the way back to Chivay. Here, the flow of the Colca River increases dramatically and spills into the valley. It is here that the Colca Canyon actually starts. Maca is located at the bottom of Sabancaya volcano which is still active and there have been many earthquakes here. The Catholic church has been rebuilt many times.
We drive out the way we came in to the place where we had the Inka Mate yesterday - at Pati Wasi - stopping before this at a point where the road passes through the crater called Chucura.
So: 4 hours to Puno!
We pass a truck broken down - changing a tyre or a wheel; taxi parked nearby - probably brought the wheel from somewhere; entire lane of the road blocked.
The road is 'straight as a die' here.
Countryside mostly undulating: greens, yellows, browns pierced every now and then by little streams; isolated farms fenced off with stone walls. Great grey and white clouds loom over distant hills.
We stop at Lago Lagunillas which at 4,444 m is the highest lake in the world (Titicaca is the highest navigable lake) and we stop to see Chilean flamingos.
We drive through a dramatic landscape of rocky outcrops, the slopes beneath covered in pampas grasses. Would love to spend more time here ...
Through Juliaca we crawl through the centre of this fairly large city, through narrow streets crowded with people; it is Sunday, and I guess people are out enjoying themselves.
And we arrive into a very chilly Puno at 6:30 p.m. - we decide to eat our snacks rather than go out as we don't know our way around and there are only certain parts of Puno that apparently are safe for travellers.
FAST FACTS (for the benefit of Richard who I think by now has researched it anyway):
The Colca Canyon is a geological formation created by erosion from the Colca River over thousands of years. It reaches depths of 4160 meters and is more than 120 kilometers long. This was confirmed in 2005 when an expedition led by the Polish researcher Andrew Pietowski performed several measurements using GPS. This makes the Colca Canyon the deepest canyon in the world and approximately twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. This canyon is part of the volcanic chain of the western Andes, where there are spectacular views volcanoes such as Hualca Hualca, Ampato and Sabancaya.
It is also popularly known as “The Kingdom of the Condor”.
The Colca Valley is named after a word of Quechua origin meaning 'barn', which was, in ancient times, designated as the warehouse where corn surplus was stored for the unforeseeable droughts.
Lovely morning.
First stop is the main plaza in town where a traditional dance is underway - called the Wititi dance.
Nearby, I had some yummy chirimoya icecream from a roadside stall; we had seen this fruit in the market in Chivay yesterday. Best part was the walk back along the edge of the canyon (I was a bit ‘over’ condors ...)
We stopped at the old river town of Maca on the way back to Chivay. Here, the flow of the Colca River increases dramatically and spills into the valley. It is here that the Colca Canyon actually starts. Maca is located at the bottom of Sabancaya volcano which is still active and there have been many earthquakes here. The Catholic church has been rebuilt many times.
We drive out the way we came in to the place where we had the Inka Mate yesterday - at Pati Wasi - stopping before this at a point where the road passes through the crater called Chucura.
So: 4 hours to Puno!
We pass a truck broken down - changing a tyre or a wheel; taxi parked nearby - probably brought the wheel from somewhere; entire lane of the road blocked.
The road is 'straight as a die' here.
Countryside mostly undulating: greens, yellows, browns pierced every now and then by little streams; isolated farms fenced off with stone walls. Great grey and white clouds loom over distant hills.
We stop at Lago Lagunillas which at 4,444 m is the highest lake in the world (Titicaca is the highest navigable lake) and we stop to see Chilean flamingos.
We drive through a dramatic landscape of rocky outcrops, the slopes beneath covered in pampas grasses. Would love to spend more time here ...
Through Juliaca we crawl through the centre of this fairly large city, through narrow streets crowded with people; it is Sunday, and I guess people are out enjoying themselves.
And we arrive into a very chilly Puno at 6:30 p.m. - we decide to eat our snacks rather than go out as we don't know our way around and there are only certain parts of Puno that apparently are safe for travellers.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)